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When assembling a list of London’s best restaurants, one might foresee well-known award-winning establishments. But, situated high among these culinary heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu located in a outlying area of north London.

An Shocking Honour

The compact Turkish spot, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a influential gastronomic guide. This accolade has made the owners completely surprised.

“I am totally surprised,” says the owner’s son, referring to his parents’ relentless work that resulted in their small place earning such a prominent position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

This compact space, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a buzzing destination, has kept much of its former feel. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking display, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” notes the owner.

The Signature Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it is all about the cuisine, and this eatery more than succeeds. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a tender consistency.

It is then thrown into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. Once the flavourful mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is folded securely inside.

It is typically eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a mighty slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a deeper, nuttier and less sickly taste.

Surpassing the Giants

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place full for under £25, similar experiences at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that price.

The Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is warmth, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is supported by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a role of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to reveal what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Path of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at elite restaurants. “I feel really pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum used to be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a social life but her friends would support her to help her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the Culture

This restaurant’s success is bound to have meaning outside its own premises. “In my opinion a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the broader meaning of this culinary achievement.